Behind the merch: 10 Questions for Tatiana de Bourguesdon, Founder of Retail Advice

French version

With her gentle face and naturally chic and sophisticated demeanor, Tatiana de Bourguesdon reveals at the beginning of our conversation her passion for diving with sharks since the age of 14. It seems as if she was made for the world of luxury – doesn't it? – a world with which I can't help but draw a parallel: a universe that embodies elegance, excellence, but also rigor and high standards. Drawing from her experience in luxury at the demanding Prada, Tatiana, now an independent consultant, takes us to the heart of her most memorable experiences. She shares anecdotes about ambitious projects and reveals her insights on the contemporary and future challenges of retail.

A unique glimpse into her expertise and vision for the sector's future.

1. CAN you introduce yourself?

I am Tatiana de Bourguesdon, an independent consultant and expert in retail and customer experience for 5 years. Previously, I worked for 10 years with major fashion and luxury brands. On a personal level, I am the mother of a 3-year-old girl and passionate about music, surfing, and sharks!

2. You have a long and rich experience at Prada. I’m curious to know about your most remarkable retail project?

Indeed, I spent 8 very rich and intense years in the French subsidiary of the Prada Group in Paris (France was the 3rd most important market at that time for the group). I evolved within the Retail Merchandising department, always in the 'Leather Goods and Accessories' category (the most important in sales) across all universes: Prada Women, Prada Men, and Miu Miu. So, I had the opportunity to participate in many beautiful projects.

I’m particularly thinking of a Prada 'Take Over' at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann for two months. The preparation spanned the previous 12 months, with sleepless nights and studious weekends in the days leading up to it. But the result was there: all the windows of the Men's and Women's buildings at GL and a pop-up in Prada colors, exclusive products, dedicated communication, and the existing Prada corners restyled!

3. Louis Vuitton creates a merchandising recommendation for each of its boutiques, while other brands work by cluster (depending on the store size or revenue). At Prada, how did you make your merchandising recommendations? How did you ensure they were well implemented?

Yes, each brand has its retail merchandising strategies. Regarding roles, there are brands where the Store Manager is responsible for purchasing for their store (like at Chanel). At Prada, purchases are made by the Retail Merchandising head office teams. The cluster logic is interesting when managing a significant number of stores, which was my case! But I had quite a few store clusters, so ultimately a very ‘fine-tuned’ approach! The cluster is a group that mixes both quantitative criteria (store size, display capacity, sales forecast) and qualitative criteria (type of clientele, type of store, location…). When I made purchases for a store, I had to consider all these criteria. Moreover, and this is Prada's great strength, obsessed and excellent in Visual Merchandising, we also had to project when buying a 'story' of products: when will it be displayed? In which part of the store? Next to what?… Demanding but fascinating! So, the stores received the products I had ordered for them. We used a software to follow the stock arrival, sales, and restocking... The display of the products was subsequently ensured by the Visual Merchandising team, assisted by the Retail Merchandisers.

4. Brands are all unique, but the teams ultimately always face the same challenges. What are the challenges you have identified and address as a retail expert?

As a Retail Merchandiser, you need to combine the triptych: the right product, the right place, the right time. Specifically, it means knowing 6 months in advance (when purchases are made) what will work in your stores. Another challenge of being a Retail Merchandiser for stores with high tourist traffic (as is the case for luxury stores in France) is buying what foreign customers (mainly Chinese at that time) will like, not what you would buy for yourself. I remember that when I was in buying sessions in Milan, I often discussed with my Chinese counterpart to know what she liked.

5. Your current project, or the most inspiring recent one?

My ongoing project is very interesting but unfortunately I can’t talk about it at the moment. However, I did a rather innovative mission last year. I worked for 7 months with the football club Paris Saint-Germain on their stores. The retail culture was not very developed. Moreover, the stores were all franchises. I worked on harmonizing the stores, creating, and structuring retail processes for all their stores worldwide.

Paris Saint Germain

• 6. How do you harmonize stores and create retail processes?
  

  From a visual standpoint, I create a concept store book and a retail merchandising guidelines book to provide image directives. Moreover, whenever a new story is displayed, we ask the stores for pictures or visit them to check what has been done.
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• From a retail process standpoint, we first audited what existed & what didn’t. Then, reporting templates were created and communicated. Also, a lot of virtual or in-person exchanges with the stores to inform them of new processes (more follow-up) and new expectations, and what the new functioning would be. This is not necessarily easy when collaborating with franchise stores (vs. owned stores) because they don't have the same contractual ‘obligations’. Therefore, a lot of diplomacy is needed to convey messages and make them understand that by following the processes, they will have more beautiful and more efficient stores. But the implementation of new processes also involved internal changes where it was also necessary to instill this retail culture, 'design' new things to follow, and establish a roadmap of who/when/what.
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  7. As a retail enthusiast, you are aware of the latest trends. What is the most beautiful store you have visited and why?
  

  • I looked for a mistake in this store, but couldn't find it. Without hesitation, Maison Diptyque on Rue Duphot in Paris is, in my opinion, flawless. Diptyque boutiques have always been splendid, with incredible window displays that are refreshed every six weeks. Each boutique is beautiful and unique, but I feel that with Maison Duphot we have reached a new level. This expansive space is composed of rooms, each with its own universe, offering total immersion as soon as you enter. All our senses are awakened, immediately plunging us into the world of the brand.
• Diptyque

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• 8. The best customer experience you've had? Or one you wish you had thought of?
  

  • I'm a bit sad to admit it, but it's not very recent! It dates back to 2 years ago in the niche perfume store 'The Harmonist'. I really felt that the advisor was interested in me. In fact, we only talked about me (I think everyone likes that deep down). Their customer experience is based on that because it's the customer's personality that will define the most suitable perfume for them.

• • 9. What will the future of retail look like in your opinion?
    

    • More experimental. More personalized. Always more beautiful stores. I don’t want to imagine robots replacing humans: it depresses me! However, a more extensive use of technology to remove irritants like waiting at the checkout is welcome: in this sense, I foresee a more massive adoption of fast checkout techniques (smart carts, self-checkout…). But this use of technology must be nuanced: luxury retail service can never do without humans! And last but not least, AI of course! This technology will (and already does) make relevant look recommendations to customers, based on 'personas' and their purchase history.
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    • 10. Any piece of advice for young Retail Thinkers?
      

      Be curious, keep your eyes open. Do not limit or segment yourself in retail inspirations: one universe can nourish another!

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