If there’s one retail world where building the product assortment is most complex, it’s certainly that of concept stores.
In a mono-brand store, the product assortment is defined in-house by a brand employee—this is the role of the retail merchandiser (also sometimes called a retail buyer).
There’s often a merchandiser per product category, with deep knowledge of the brand and its universe.
In contrast, a concept store buyer faces a triple challenge:
multiple universes, multiple brands, and the need for a distinctive curation.
Let’s break that down…
A mono-brand merchandiser builds the assortment for their product category.
Depending on the size of the company, the breakdown may vary, but often there’s a buyer for ready-to-wear, one for shoes, and one for bags and accessories.
(The larger the brand, the more specialized the buyers are—sometimes even by sub-category.)
This buyer is an expert in their category and, of course, knows the brand DNA and target customer intimately.
The scope of products and universe to master is therefore narrower than that of a concept store buyer.
That said, mono-brand buyers usually manage a much larger store network.
The concept store buyer, on the other hand, wears many hats.
They must create the entire store assortment, not just one category. Their sourcing field is vast!
The selected categories are often very diverse: jewelry, beauty, fine foods, lifestyle, stationery, fashion…
This requires a broad understanding of many product universes.
What makes concept stores so unique and appealing also makes life harder for the product teams.
In a mono-brand boutique, all items stem from the same creative vision, brand DNA, and artistic direction—offering a built-in coherence that simplifies both the assortment strategy and visual merchandising.
In a concept store, the assortment is built across multiple brands and multiple product categories.
Several creative identities coexist in the same space, and the key challenge is to craft a harmonious and cohesive selection, both in product choice and display.
This challenge is heightened by the sheer variety of product types—from jewelry to furniture!
Concept stores aren’t just multi-brand shops—they’re known for their sharp eye, their ability to spot trends, and their off-the-beaten-track offerings.
Customers come to concept stores to be inspired and discover rare finds.
“What makes Merci a hit is the sense of COOL in everything they sell. It shows in how the products are displayed. You need to give the customer space and time—and make them feel like they’ve made the find of the century!”
DANIELA LEONINI BOURNAZAC, FORMER STORE DIRECTOR OF MERCI (PARIS)
So yes, curating a concept store’s selection is one of the most demanding retail missions.
The legendary Colette store did this with its signature scented candles. Merci also began branding its own products alongside its curated selection. Thus, concept stores evolve into brands in their own right.
Daniela Leonini Bournazac notes:
“Since 2015, Merci has increasingly created exclusive collabs or branded versions of existing products with the Merci logo.”
These Merci-branded products have been a commercial success.
Concept Store ‘Nous’ – Paris 16e
Let’s look at some best practices for building a winning concept store assortment.
Two main scenarios:
Scenario 1: The store already exists
You can rely on sales history to analyze what has (or hasn’t) worked and adjust accordingly.
That said, concept stores must constantly innovate, test, and rethink—which is true of many retail roles.
Scenario 2: The store is brand new
You must build the product mix from scratch—without knowing what will work in that location.
What to do?
- Study the competitive landscape.
What other stores are nearby? What product segments do they offer? Are there other concept stores? What’s their price/image positioning?
- Define your target customer.
What’s their buying power? Style? Are they locals, tourists, seasonal?
Will your store be strong and unique enough to become a destination?
All these insights will help determine which universes and product categories to feature.
But again—no clear-cut answers here.
For instance, if no nearby shop sells organic beauty products, is that a market gap to fill—or a sign that this offer won’t work in that area?
Or, if you plan to sell cookies in your fine food section, but the neighborhood’s top sweets shop is just 100 meters away—should you still go for it?
The answer will lie in thoughtful analysis—but also in testing in real life.
Being a “test & learn” environment is essential in concept retail.
Regularly introducing new arrivals is key to staying fresh and relevant.
Also, available space will influence which categories to include—or drop.
Once product categories are chosen, comes the question of quantities. A few helpful factors to keep in mind:
- Sales history can help establish forecasts.
- Without data, base quantities on display capacity.
- Always plan more stock than your expected sales volume.
- Buy larger quantities for lower-priced products, and vice versa.
- Factor in seasonality and foot traffic variations.
Once again, the diversity of brands and product categories in a concept store makes visual merchandising more complex.
You need to create aesthetic harmony and a logical customer journey—despite the mix of products.
The best first step: mapping out the store’s layout by product zone.
There are many tried-and-true best practices here:.
- Organize and display items by product category.
- Clear, logical presentation is especially important in concept stores.
Personally, I believe only the window displays should showcase mixed-product scenographies.
Concept Store ‘Nous’ – Paris 16e
Some classic VM tips:
- “Attack table”: strategically positioned at the entrance, showcasing new arrivals and bestsellers.
- Impulse purchases: placed near the checkout.
- Children’s items: closer to the front.
- High-value items (e.g., jewelry): in a dedicated, isolated display in the back.
Other visual merchandising golden rules still apply:
- Pyramid structures
- Neat, sharp stock density
- Use of props to create rhythm
- Merchandising by color mood
Concept store at Bon Marché
Concept store at Printemps Haussmann